Denim 101

WHAT IS DRY DENIM?

Dry or Raw denim is denim fabric that is not washed during the production phase, after the color treatment process. Unlike most denim, the makers of Dry or Raw Denim allow this process to happen in a natural aging cycle of the denim fabric itself (and unique to you), instead of speeding it up to creating a “desirable” purchase look.

Most people who are dry denim enthusiasts feel that these jeans are truly a pair of jeans that are going to be fit and worn to your specific body. Because Dry Denim is not going to have wear to it when you first receive them, the denim will then only be affected by your daily life, by your activities, by your unique set of experiences, making each mark, line and even tear, authentic to not only the brand, but to you.

WHY DO MOST DENIM MAKERS WASH DENIM TO BEGIN WITH? One Wash

Washing denim after the dye process creates a few typical appearances such as “softening” “distressing” “creasing” “whiskering” “fading” etc.. Concurrently, washing denim after the dye process can also prevent some certain negative affects such shrinkage, although not usually to an ideal, as we all can attest. While dry denim is definitely going to be more exclusive to you than a pair of pre-distressed jeans, they don’t necessarily get that way over night. So, be prepared to wear them, and wear them hard! Most Dry Denim enthusiasts will not wash their jeans for 6 months or even years.

WHAT IS SELVAGE DENIM?

Selvage is from the term “self-edge” and has more to do with the inside roll or “edge” on a pair of jeans than the actual denim itself. However, you’re certainly most likely to find selvage in a pair of dry denim jeans…although they are mutually exclusive. A selvage edge, or roll, is usually done running along the edge of the denim’s outseam. Yet, it is only selvage when the seaming is done in a certain and very meticulous way.

Have you ever noticed that when some jeans are cuffed up, the seaming looks extremely finishes and clean—like the edge was made look visible? As if the seam could never come undone? Well, if you’ve seen that, then you were probably looking at selvage denim. This is an extremely high quality finish from an old school “shuttle loom”. Unfortunately though, not all of today’s denim is made on a shuttle loom—in fact, most is not. Using a shuttle loom to create denim in today’s world is a very costly (not to mention lengthy) process. And, although the finished result is a tighter and superior quality weave, most companies began to use a different method called the “projectile loom” back in the ‘50’s to save material and labor cost. Consequently, not too many selvage options at your local malls…but stocked at Phenom.

WHAT IS SANFORIZING?

Think of sanforizing as a dry denim maker’s way to preshrink your denim material without ever effecting the way it will be colored or faded. Pretty great. Not every pair of dry jeans is sanforized though…that’s where soaking comes into play…

BATHING MY JEANS?

Yes. And no. This is a pretty controversial method. Not everyone recommends it. In fact, some people are against it. Soaking denim while you are wearing the denim (ie in the tub) is usually recommended by jeans that have not been sanforized (remember—that means they haven’t shrunk yet). By doing this, the denim is going to shrink right to your body and yet, it will not shrink past your body. That’s why people recommend actually wearing them while you’re in the shower. Use warm water, as this will allow the fabric fibers to really expand and as they dry, they contract-creating that shrink and fit that you’re looking for. The soaking process also helps to break jeans in a little more quickly and fade the denim fast. Just don’t forget, if your denim is sanforized, your purchase is true-to-size, and this process is not needed. You’ll definitely want to preserve that cut and might make the jeans shrink and end up being too small.

HOW DO I WASH THEM NOW THAT I’VE BROKE ‘EM IN? – THEY’RE STARTING TO STINK.

The standard dry denim wash recommendation is six months. Washing dry denim too soon won’t ruin your denim, however, it will ruin your faded pattern. It will take your jeans from whiskered and destroyed to evenly colored. This long-time-no-wash-standard is one of the reasons that dry denim is not for everyone.

Regardless of when you wash however, the method is pretty much the same: Wash Alone, Wash Cold, Wash Inside Out, Wash Using Gentle Non-Bleach detergents, and last, but not least, whether washing or soaking, make sure you line dry ‘em.

Fresh pairs…

Worn-in pairs…